An indirect answer to your question.
We have done 0.5mm pitch LQFP DIY boards.
We used 'proper' laser printable PCB Artwork Drafting film
We spent quite a lot of time calibrating the exposure time of the PCB in the UV box, and IIRC it was sensitive to a +/- 5 second variation. Too short or too long produced poor results. IIRC, we made a 'PCB' with some test patterns for different track/space distances to help us calibrate things.
We still had quite a lot of trouble getting good results. Then we discovered that the laser printer was stepping in, and trying to produce a 'grayscale' when the PCB artwork 'pixel' boundaries didn't match its own idea of pixel boundaries. When we examined the artwork under a microscope, we could see that edges were defined by a fuzzy (dithered) half-tone pattern, rather than a much denser, more uniform edge.
We improved the results by 'fiddling around' with printer settings.
Then I redid the footprint of the 0.5mm pitch LQFP part so that the gap between pads was slightly bigger. That gave better results.
Edit:
I know folks who have tried a 1,700GBP 'ebay' PCB mill. AFAIK they gave up due to difficulties getting consistent results. They have now spent a lot more to get a proper LPKF milling machine.
Edit2:
Is the entire board 'packed', with a need for 0.25mm track/space everywhere or is it mainly around the 80pin part?
Depending on where you are in your development process, and the sort of issues you are needing to fix, a way to reduce the pain might be to make a 'breakout' board for the LQFP part with your high-quality manufacturer. That would have lead-time, but once you have some, you might be able to turn-round the rest of the PCB using DIY.
It may also be the breakout PCB can solve some of your layout issues. If you put it's decoupling capacitors etc on its breakout PCB, its behaviour might be okay. My experience is manufactured vias are much smaller than DIY vias freeing up board area. Further, putting vias under the chip are awkward to do on a DIY PCB. So you might get a lot of benefit from the manufactured breakout, and hence make the remaining DIY PCB easier to route.
A traditional breakout usually has pins on 0.1" centres, in a square around the chip. You don't need to do that. You could use finer pitch connections and with pins in a non-rectangular, convenient, shape for your problem.
Maybe even consider doing a 4-layer breakout PCB, to make the rest of the board as simple to layout and make as practical.
Best Answer
well for easing the alignment I usually make some two '+'(plus) signs at two sides of the PCB I draw those plus signs as multi-layer in Altium designer so it will be on the stencil too. one more thing is using a transparent stencil so that you can see the other side and If you are making lots of PCBs, it is profitable to buy a stencil than to make one but remember to ask the operator not to cut the PCBs to pieces so that you can put the components all at one try it is a lot faster
another way is that you can also just export your pins as a CAD file and send if for a laser cut on a 0.5mm It will cost you much less.