IMPORTANT:
- It is far far better that a fuse sometimes blows when there was no need for it to, than for it to sometimes fail to blow when a fault condition exists.
Blowing a fuse. The term "blow" will be used here for the fusing of a fuse - the act of melting the fuse wire and breaking the electrical circuit. Terms such as "it blew a fuse" and "why did the fuse blow?" are common here. The term "blow" in this context may be less common in some countries. Using "fuse" which is correct, as in "the fuse fused", is liable to be too confusing :-).
Why do they blow?
Should they?
The purpose of a fuse is to protect equipment and wiring against the damaging effects of electrical faults which cause excess currents, and to disable equipment which is faulty. The fuse "blows" when the current carried exceeds the rated value for an excessive time. The higher the overload the shorter the period before the fuse blows. So, equipment which is meant to "draw" 10 amps but which has a short from phase to ground, so it draws, say, 100 amps, will blow its fuse in milliseconds. But, a piece of equipment which draws say double the fuse's rated value, may take many seconds to melt the fusewire and to blow the fuse. The ratio between trip times(time to blow) and "overload to rated current ratio" vary with fuse design and can to some extent be controlled by the manufacturer. This is a complete subject in its own right, but assume that a fuse will blow "after a while" at 2 x + overload and will blow almost immediately with say 10 x + overload.
A piece of wire can only be so smart ...
Because a somewhat complex task is being carried out by a deceptively simple piece of equipment (ie a piece of wire) and because the fuse is not always optimally dimensioned for the equipment used, the fuse sometimes "blows" when there is no significant or long term fault condition present.
To blow or not to blow ? - that is the question.
Dimensioning & surges.
Assume that a fuse will blow "after a while" at 2 x its rated value then we can expect it to run indefinitely at its rated value.
If we have a household circuit rate at 20 amps and a number of outlets rated at say 10A then it is possible to connect more load that the rated fuse value. If we connect say a 10A fan heater, a 5 amp one bar radiator (maybe in the next room), a 400 Watt plasma TV (about 2A), and some plug in mood lighting at say 1 A or less then all SHOULD be well. 10+5+2+1 = 18A. If somebody then turns on an electric jug rated at say 8A current rises to 26A. More than the 20A nominal value but less than the 2 x 20A = 40A we have said it will blow at. But if the plasma TV is off and is turned on suddenly the power supply input filters amy present a nearly pure capacitive load to the mains. The mains will be at random phase at TV turnon and usually a current spike will cause no problems. But on some random lucky (or unlucky) day the mains may be at the very peak of the mains cycle at turn on. The capacitor may have stored charge of opposite polarity from last turnoff leading to an even greater current spike. Add a possibly high mains voltage (as happens) and some heavy switching spikes from a nearby factory, or even domestic equipment (treadmill, welder, drill, sander, router, planer ...) Then load + capacitor spike + high mains + switching transient may lead to a very high short term load. And the fuse may decide enough is enough and melt. Or may not.
*Unlikely?*Is all the above likely to happen at once?
No. But as reported, the nuisance blowing happens only a few times a year. Ij the order of what is expected.
We could make the fuse rating higher (more amps)!
Yes. That is one solution. But the ability to react to moderate overloads is lost. Along with lack of protection may go loss of insurance, if the insurance loss assessors find a still intact 2 x 20A wire fuse in the smouldering ruins of your workshop.
4:40am
Rushing.
If you search prior material on Stack Exchange EE you'll find a substantial amount of material on this.
The figures you cite are in the order of right.
Fuse blowing current and fault clearing current are different.
HRC (high rupture capacity) fuses exist to deal with this difference.
The ceramic bodied fuses you see in better equipment are HRC.
A glass fuse may blow but sustain an arc of 100's of amps long enough to kill you.
If your pole fuse is 100A and your neighbours is 100A and ... what is the street cct able to supply?
If you draw 50A from your home mains supply and it sags 1%, what current would you expect it to supply if you hard shorted it?
At 50 Hz, 230 VAC, what inductance do you need to add say 1 Ohm reactance to your house feeder circuit. What inductance do you think the feeder has?
A friend had an electrician (stupidly) reverse phase and neutral when wiring up their house.
Steam came out of the cold taps due to electrical heating in the grounded copper "cold" water pipes as current flowed from mains phase via switchboard ground to copper pipes and thence to ground. (really)
and worms crawled out of the ground (really)
and they tell me that the house made groaning sounds.
I imagine that that was probably from water boiling in the cold water pipes.
What current do you think flowed :-) :-( ?
HRC fuses - there will be somje ueful links there.
Wikipedia - fuses
- The breaking capacity is the maximum current that can safely be interrupted by the fuse. Generally, this should be higher than the prospective short circuit current. Miniature fuses may have an interrupting rating only 10 times their rated current.
Some fuses are designated High Rupture Capacity (HRC) and are usually filled with sand or a similar material. Fuses for small, low-voltage, usually residential, wiring systems are commonly rated, in North American practice, to interrupt 10,000 amperes.
Wikipedia - breaking capacity
- Miniature circuit breakers and fuses may be rated to interrupt as little as 75 amperes and are intended for supplementary protection of equipment, not the primary protection of a building wiring system. In North American practice, approved general-purpose low-voltage fuses must interrupt at least 10,000 amperes and certain types useful for large commercial and industrial low-voltage distribution systems are rated to safely interrupt 200,000 amperes..
ADDED
Stack Exchange:
Similar material.
Fuses: What are the practical differences between Ceramic and Glass cartridge fuses
What is the Thévenin equivalent of the mains power supply? - 1st approximation - a piece of copper busbar :-)
The Impact of Mains Impedance on Power Quality
Useful. See fig 6.
Note transformer impedances specified as a % - this is the % drop in output voltage at rated load.
Added 2:
Thanks for the clarification of breaking capacity and highlighting reactance. I still think 2000 amps is over the top. 200 amps I could understand.
I'd guesstimate that 2000A would probably be getting on the high side in a residential situation. But 200A is far too low.
Far far too low.
If you can get 50A intended current at your home's distribution board and your neighbour's lights do not flicker, what would you get if you shorted it?
People have died from mains arc discharge that was improperly interrupted.
Standards typically allow a 5% V drop at the farthest outlet from the distribution board in a home at rated load.
At 20A rate that implies available current is ~+ 20A/0.05 = 400A.
And that's worst case on house wiring!.
Best Answer
The current rating of a fuse represents the minimum sustained current the fuse will blow at ... eventually. A 1A fuse will take 1A for a very long time without blowing, and if the fuse can dump some heat into the PCB or has airflow across it, may never blow at 1A.
The critical parameter is the \$I^2 \cdot t\$ rating, which gives you an idea of the energy (power and time) needed to blow it. (Remember that fuses are really meant to protect circuits when there are catastrophic failures.)
It's crucially important to match \$I^2 \cdot t\$ ratings, since if you replace a fast acting fuse with a slow-blow type, even thought they both say 1A, it's going to take radically different energy levels to actually blow them.
When the fuse is intact, you only have an \$I \cdot R\$ voltage drop across it. This drop is going to be nowhere close to the voltage rating of the fuse (else it acts like a big resistor and limits the energy available to your circuit.) Once the fuse blows, the voltage rating comes into play, which represents how much voltage potential the open fuse can withstand without flashing over and re-energizing the compromised load circuit.