First draw the circuit with positive power at the top negative at bottom, power currents generally flowing down, and signals feeding left to right. If you do that, two useful things happen. First, many circuits will be drawn similarly most of the time, and you learn to recognize them after a while. Second, you will confuse yourself and anyone you ask to help you less in what is actually going on and what you hooked up where.
Redrawing the schematic so as to better illuminate the circuit, we have:

It is obvious why the LED doesn't come on, or blips on for a short time at best. That is because it is in series with capacitor C1. Capacitors block DC current. There can't be any sustained current thru the LED.
What you probably intended was something like this:

This allows the capacitor to be like a small reservoir for the LED. It will keep the LED lit for a short time after the transistor is shut off.
With this circuit you can see how a little base current can control a larger collector current, which is how a bipolar transistor is used to make circuits with gain.
However, the values don't seem right for what I think you want this circuit to do. Most LEDs are rated for 20 mA maximum, so R2 should be sized to that this can't be exceeded. Let's say it's a green LED and drops 2.1 V at full current, and that the transistor would drop another 200 mV. That leaves 9.0V - 2.1V - 200mV = 6.7V accross R2. From Ohm's law, 6.7V / 20mA = 335Ω, which is the minimum resistance to keep the LED current within spec. Therefore use the next higher common value of 360 Ω. That still results in nearly 19 mA LED current. You won't notice the brightness difference between 19 mA and 20 mA even in a side by side comparison.
Another problem is that there isn't enough base current to reliably light the LED to its full value. Let's say the B-E junction drops 600 mV, then there is 8.4 V accross R1, which results in 84 µA. Let's say you can count on a gain of 50, so the minimum LED current is only 4.2 mA. That's enough to see it light up on your desk, but not to reach full brightness. In reality, you will likely get a gain higher than 50, so you will get more LED current, but relying on that is bad design.
Let's work backwards to see what R1 should be to fully turn on the LED. Again we'll assume the transistor has a gain of 50, and we've already said the maximum LED current is about 20 mA. 20mA / 50 = 400µA. With 8.4 V accross R1 from above and using Ohm's law again, the maximum R1 value is 8.4V / 400µA = 21kΩ, so the common value of 20 kΩ would make this a nice and reliable circuit if the intent is to light the LED to full brightness.
The circuit you describe is an emitter follower - the emitter voltage follows the base voltage and is always about 0.7 volts negative of the base. The transistor doesn't care where you think "ground" is, its operation only depends on the voltages between its pins.
If you ground the emitter, and put your load between the collector and the positive supply, you will be able to get very close to the supply voltage across the load when the Arduino output is high. You should have a resistor of 1K or so between the Arduino output pin and the transitor base, to limit base current and loading of the Arduino output pin.
Best Answer
Very nice presentation of your problem. Well done, and thanks.
(1) Check that your switch connects left to right when pressed and not top to bottom.
Remove switch - does LED go out.
Use a piece of wire. Does LED turn on?
(2) It appears that the problem is that the circuit they have given you is utterly and completely and inexplicably scrambled. It would be hard to have the circuit much wronger that that and still light the LED! It just MAY be sort of correct given several unlikely assumptions.
How can this be?
I so didn't believe what I was seeing that I checked several times.
2N2222 data sheet here
What transistor are YOU using? What is the pinout.
Even if YOU are not using a 2N2222 they should be.
The circuit is wrong because:
They say 2n2222 so it should be NPN
It is normal to put the LED in the collector circuit but not essential.
If R3 is in collector then it should not go to V- power rail but to V+.
If we assume LED is in Emitter circuit then R1 must be in collector circuit and the transistor is being used as an "emitter follower". Not what you would usually do or for a beginner but say that's correct. And the pinout is backwards. Let's assume it is.
Then base should be being pulled +ve to turn on. It is.
They should have a pulldown on the bas to ground to turnthe transistor off - especially when used as an emitter follower. Connect another 10k from SW1/R1 junction to ground. Test . report.
BUT
Ensure transistor is CBE bottom to top as per 2N2222 datasheet or find what it really is.
Identify C B E with certainty. Ensure NPN transistor.
Collector via R3 and LED to V+
Emitter to ground
10K from Base to ground
10K via switch to V+
Like this with different values, but I have added extra 10k from base to ground (a wise precaution).
I checkd 2N2222 data sheets from several manufacturers. ALL I found including metal can ones show transistor is CBE readingUP the breadboard as shown. (terminals 48-49-50) SO there is NO DOUBT that they have the circuit VERY WRONG as shown. Their C (terminal 48( goes via R3 to B- (ground). For an NPN transistor it should be B+ / +12v. etc. Build the circuit as I have suggested. It will work ;-). Transistor MAY be dead.
Datasheets
metal can
[TO18 & TO39 metal can both the same](metal can )
All TO92 plastic seem to be ONSemi - several distributors:
Did they provide a proper circuit diagram?
If so please show it.
ONSemi TO92 plastic
Update:
Here is the book concerned .
(1) The transistor is reversed. Turn it around 180 degrees and their circuit is as they intended. Their basic data shows the transistor wrongly.
(2) And / But - the circuit is an emittee follower as it was obvious it would be if you "just" reversed the transistor. This is such an 'interesting' way to do things that it was hard to believe that it was intended. It was.
Their "rather interesting" circuit: