Electronic – Why does low power factor make the LED bulb and clock radio flicker at 0.2 to 3 Hz

groundingnoisepower-factor-correction

[California, USA, regular 110 V power.]

I'm reading the power factor of my "Late 2013" 27-inch iMac using a P3 P4400 Kill-A-Watt. It reads 0.95 when operating normally (60 to 120 W), but when sleeping, even with Power Nap off and power bouncing between 0 & 2 W (to power the USB mouse & keyboard to allow user wakeup) the PF bounces around 0.50. The K-A-W has a low update rate, so it's hard to read with the computer in this state.

If I "Prevent computer from sleeping when display is off", with screen off it draws about 22 W and the PF sits at 0.50.

In both of these cases (just screen off or computer sleeping), an Ikea LED bulb and my 15+ year old Sony ICF-CD831 CD clock radio's LED display flicker. Usually a few seconds between flicks, sometimes at about 3 Hz. The Ikea bulb runs very hot in a non-enclosed fixture. It might be failing and I'll throw it out when I'm done using it as a diagnostic. A GE bulb on the same circuit does not flicker.

As soon as I wake up the computer, the flickering stops.

My house has a 40 year old 100 Ampere Zinsco panel that the landlord's going to replace. There are only 2 20 Amp breakers for all outlets in a 3 bedroom house and some 3 prong outlets don't have the ground connected.

How can poor power factor on the computer cause devices with poor regulation to flicker? Is oxide on circuit breaker contacts a possible contributing factor?

I checked the line voltage with a DMM & saw it dipping from ~120 to under 110 with a 10 W LED bulb switched on giving an ESR of about 165 ohms, but an 1800 W hair dryer caused the same sag, so there doesn't seem to be a simple non-reactive loose wire.

Diagram added:
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Load A is iMac causing interference, B is clock radio or 10 W LED light fixture being sensitive to that interference. X and Y are the 100 V loads around the house (refrigerator, lights), Z is lumped 220 V loads (stove, clothes dryer). The only way to eliminate X, Y and Z would be to get a 200+ W inverter and battery and run A & B from that in isolation of other loads in my house & neighbors on the other side of the pole transformer & I only have a little 50 W.

Best Answer

Low power factor is often an indication of harmonic distortion of the load current. Every type of electronic device connected to AC power has the potential for harmonic distortion. Electronic loads may or may not have built in harmonic mitigation. The percentage distortion is like to me greatest with light load conditions, but the total distortion will be low unless all connected loads are generating harmonics.

Harmonic distortion and other types of electromagnetic interference generated by electronic loads could be interfering with some other electronic devices.

It is difficult to know if you should replace the harmonic generator or the items being interfered with. A third option would be to just put up with the annoyance.