Raspberry pi relay

Comments on your schematic and circuit:

1. A 7805 is not designed to handle the full range of car power, including short high voltage bursts. This has been mentioned to you before. See previous answers for details.

2. You have D1 the right way around, but I would make it a Schottky. Those react faster and will be fine for these relatively low voltages.

3. Fix the schematic to be less of a ratsnest. Traces worming their way all over the place makes it hard to read. See https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/28255/4512 for details.

4. Fix the schematic to add part values! You seem to have mentioned some of them in the text, but I'm not going to remember everything you said when looking over the schematic. Do it right, especially since you are asking others to look at it.

Without part values, it is difficult to critique anything but the overall topology. That seems OK, within the detail provided by the schematic.

Added after schematic cleaned up:

That's a lot better. It looks basically OK.

I didn't look up the maximum input voltage of the LM2576. Check that it can handle car power glitches.

The 12 V sense lines driving the PIC inputs look fine.

Check that the BC547 can support the relay coil current with a 10 kΩ base resistor driven to 5V. That should provide about 430 µA base current. If the minimum guaranteed gain of the transistor is 50, for example, then this can support up to 21 mA collector current. That's cutting it close if the relay needs 20 mA, and of course is insufficient if it needs more.

First, checkout this answer on the RasPi SE. https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/1633/how-can-one-control-ac-power-220v-with-a-raspberry-pi. Avoid using Solid State relays for controlling appliances with motors (cooling fans, winches, ski-lifts, escalators, washer Spin-Cycle, etc), unless the manufacturer says it's ok. Look online for more info on how to mitigate inductive loads with solid-state relays.

I wouldn't use the PasPi pins to directly drive anything over 4mA particularly relays. Use a transistor with kick-back protection (see below).

There is also a RasPi friendly SCR daughter board that allows you to trigger 110Volts. At our local hacklab, we used one of those to trigger a Pop Machine to dispense drinks via RasPi. Works fine and everyone is so far safe.

If you're bent on triggering a mechanical relay, you can use a Power MOSFET like this one FDC6303N to trigger your relay. This FET has built-in protection diode for the inductor kick-back. just watch that your relay voltage and amperage is below the tolerance of the FET. You could use a ULN2000 series Bi-Polar transistor as well (as suggesed. I personally like FETs). There are non-surface mount versions of these as well.

Some Safety notes:

• You can use a watch-dog chip to turn off the relay if the RasPi is hung or gone crazy. this means that every few seconds your RasPi will have say to the Watchdog: "I'm still sane" by doing something (send a digital message or flick a pin up/down).

• I would use a somewhat-weak (50-100K) resistor to pull the controlling pin of your RasPi in the direction that turns the Relay Off (in-case your system goes to an unknown state and/or the pin floats).

• Make sure the 110-220V stuff (if on the same board) are physically far and separated.

There are examples on the RASPI site for working with the GPIO pins.

Finally, what you're trying to do could obviously be hazardous. This post will by no-means whatsoever guarantee safety and operation. I'm just sharing what I've learned in hopes that with the help of this community, you get what you want. Verify this info on your own, and make your decision at the end.