Electrical – LED circuit with epoxy and (broken?) transistor

led-matrixrepairtransistors

I'm trying to repair this battery-powered LED bike light but do not really understand the circuit.
LED circuit

Positive terminal middle left, negative bottom left. Momentary push switch at the top, transistor on the right, capacitor in the middle, 5 LED array at the bottom. The lights are not supposed to blink: just on/off. The switch works, as do the lights (when transistor is shorted). Capacitor seems to work.

  1. What is likely under the epoxy? Just water resistance for resistors or is it actually a chip? How does this design work? Is there a need for a capacitor in a battery-powered LED circuit?
  2. I believe the transistor is broken. My diode tester measures 800 ohms from both positive top to middle and positive bottom to middle but also 680 ohms negative top to middle and 1260 ohms negative top to bottom (others are infinite). From this I guess that it is PNP with middle being base. Does this sound correct?
  3. The part number is S8550 D 331. Only results are Alibaba without data sheets. Close match by name is SS8550 from Fairchild (https://www.fairchildsemi.com/products/discretes/bipolar-transistors/small-signal-bjts/SS8550.html). Dimensions are slightly off. Does this seem a reasonable replacement? Any clue on the differences between models, other than leg spread and ammo vs bulk packaging?

Best Answer

The transistor is jellybean Chinese PNP transistor. The specs (and even the pinout) vary somewhat from maker to maker- no JEDEC standardization here, but it's broadly similar to the Fairchild SS8550. They seldom fail if not abused.

Anyway, the thing under the blob is an IC chip (Chip-On-Board), and chances are very good that's where the problem lies (quite possibly in the wire bonds to the chip). In which case, the unit is not economically repairable. That construction technique is not particularly good (reliability-wise) for this kind of application but it is very cheap in high volume.

You could always hack in a mechanical switch (toggle or whatever) across the transistor and ignore the electronics. It's mostly there to allow an almost free momentary switch and allow blink modes. I'd try to disconnect the chip itself - I find that the one I have slowly drains the 4 AA cells whilst allegedly off. Or if you're ambitious beyond all reason, hack in a small microcontroller to drive the transistor.