My prelit tree has strings of LED lights and each bulb has three wires going to it. Looking on the web there are a number of sites that describe how to repair strings wired in series that have two wires per bulb. However I cannot find any reference to strings with three wires per bulb.
Electrical – repair an LED Christmas light string with 3 wires per bulb. How is this string wired?
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I just saw a great and simple project that does just this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLFA57ACAC0F0DE0D1&feature=player_detailpage&v=cwiLQWJq2LQ
The project is by Alan Yates: http://www.vk2zay.net/
As I understand it, it uses a high impedance gate of a JFET to detect fluctuations in the E-field in the wires due to noise on the mains. The signal is amplified using a BJT to make sound on a piezoelectric speaker. If a light is burned out it the E-field will exist on the wire going into the light, but, not on its exit wire. Using this principal it is easy to locate the burned light. He applies this to incandescent light string, but, the same principal would apply to an LED string.
Background:
I have designed a number of LED lighting products which are manufactured in China.
I have several cylindrical LED flashlights that have a large number of LEDs in them
... Are there ultra-bright LEDs that you can drive directly off of 4.5 volts without a current limiting resistor? Or are there special purpose ultra bright white LEDs made for 4.5 volt supply that have internal current limiting resistors?
No and no, unfortunately.
Many LED lights are constructed as you describe, with multiple white LEDs wired in parallel and connected essentially directly across the battery.
They are junk.
They are not "designed".
They build them this way "because they can" and they work well enough to be able to sell them.
When supplied with 4.5V + the LEDs are driven well above their maximum design rating and their lifetimes are greatly shortened. The LEDs used are typically low lifetime low cost devices.
Follow-up question: Does anybody know if the 12 volt LED bulbs that are in landscape lights have a voltage regulator in them?
The 12 volt LED strips usually use 3 LED die in series plus a series resistor.
Turn on / turn off time is liable to be sub `1 microsecond if capacitors are not used downstream of the switch.
Current is set to be "about right" at 12 Volts so will vary substantially if used in an automotive context where several volts of variation occurs. Many strips use individual LEDs but some use 3 die per package LEDs with all 3 independent die wired in series. It is possible but not certain that strips with individual LEDs will run somewhat cooler due to a lower concentration of Energy per package.
Lifetime of these LEDs may be better as the series resistor means that they are somewhat more properly driven. I have seen very substantial variations in output of similarly appearing strips. The brightness bears no obvious relationship to LED specifications and a brighter strip may simply reflect a manufacturers 'marketing decision'. You can get a range of LEDs per metre but current drain and number of LEDs are not directly related.
White LEDs are typically have a voltage drop in the 3.0 - 3.5V range at rated current.
Current increase tends to be exponential with voltage and at 4.5V almost any LED would self destruct almost instantly. The "saving grace" (if it can be called that) is that the combination of small batteries and many LEDs means that the batteries are unable to produce more than 'vastly too much' current when the batteries are new. Any light constructed in this manner demonstrates a total lack of concern and/or knowledge by the manufacturer.
Adding even a single common series resistor makes a substantial improvement in voltage/current profile and a resistor per LED would greatly assist current balancing between LEDs.
Added May 2016
Harper commented:
OP is asking about LED bulbs, not strips. Those are commonly made as screw-in replacements for incandescents. Some have a resistor, but many have a switching buck converter which will accept a range of voltages from 12-30V or higher. The LED series voltage is quite close to 12V actual, so if voltage drops much below 12V the buck converter will go to 100% duty cycle and simply pass the voltage through, causing the LEDs to dim rapidly.
My answer addressed LED strips as I noted, which the OP did not ask about, as Harper noted :-).
Harper's comments above are correct where applicable. I have not seen a bulb with a buck converter internally, but no doubt they exist. White LEDs have Vf typically in the range 2.8V - 3.5V. 2.8V is unusual and usually only seen in reasonably modern LEDs or ones operated well under full power. At 12V nominal, 4 LEDs have 12/4 = 3V each available. Allowing a small voltage drop in connectors and wiring 4 LEDs with Vf of 2.8V to 2.9V would be able to be operated at full power. In real world situations with Vin able to be somewhat below to substantially above 12V, 4 LEDs in series will often work but 3 x LEDs in series plus a series resistor is 'safer'. Bulbs may not match strips in configuration, but all 12V LED strips that I have seen use 3 LEDs in series plus a resistor.
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Best Answer
I took a string apart and traced the circuit. It's interesting- pairs of LED's are in parallel and these pairs are wired in series. The string uses a full-wave rectifier (improves flicker) and splits the diodes between the plug end and receptacle end (so both plug and receptacle are not too large). So for an extra wire per bulb this design gains redundancy- one bulb of any or multiple pairs can be missing or open and the string still lights. However if both bulbs of a pair are missing or open the string is dark.
Of course a parallel string is better for reliability but I think that would require four wires per bulb and a brick power supply of some type.
So as far as repairing it seems best to replace burned out bulbs immediately. This is because if the other bulb paired with a burned out bulb goes then the entire string goes. Then tracing which bulb is bad requires special effort. Of course I've read that sometimes LED bulbs fail shorted instead of open. So this helps.
Here is a schematic: