Given: Cree XM-L LED.
Want: Up to 2A drive, PWM controled by PC via USB.
This can be two parts. ie actual LED drive and PC to LED drive interface. These may or may not be integrated.
A "very easy" approach is to
1. use an off the shelf USB to "output" device. "Output" may be analog level, PWM, 8 bit port etc to control ...
2. An off the shelf LED driver that uses analog or PWM input.
For example, the circuit below using a RT8482 requires an analog input level or PWM with a simple RC filter (to convert the PWM to analog). The analog could be provided by a USB to analog output I/O device (COTS) or by a USB to parallel port device (not a printer port per se) (COTS) with a simple R2R digital to analog converter (about 16 resistors plus maybe a cheap op-amp).
Many examples of R-2R ladders here - links live
Or a microcontroller with USB capability could have a relatively simple program written to provide PWM or analog output. A USB enabled Arduino or a Raspberry Pi would do this. (USB has to be slave not host mode).
LED drive:
(1) "Off the shelf" complete units that do the LED drive part of this job well are available at good prices from eg ebay, or Mouser and similar. Using such is a good default solution unless you have some reason to do otherwise.
(2) DIY LED driver.
Digikey LED drivers are found here. Alas the parametric search is poor in this case (which is unusual).
Searching using LED driver 2A gives better results.
There will be a nummber.
Example only: For $US1.52/1 in stock Digikey you get
1
Ricktek RT8482, buck or boost, LED driver.
Drives external MOSFET so LED current capability essentially unlimited.
Looks like a good start. 350 kHz for smallish inductors.
- High Voltage Capability : VIN Up to 36V, VOUT Up to
48V
Buck, Boost or Buck Boost Operation
C u r r e n t M o d e P W M w i t h 3 5 0 k H z S w i t c h i n g
Frequency
Easy Dimming : Analog, PWM Digital or PWM
Converting to Analog with One External Capacitor
Programmable Soft Start to Avoid Inrush Current
Programmable Over Voltage Protection
VIN Under Voltage Lockout and Thermal Shutdown
16-Lead WQFN and SOP Packages
RoHS Compliant and Halogen Free
A MOSFET suitable for use as M1 would be eg ONSEMI NTD4960 $US0.40/1 in stock Digikey, 30V, 9A, 9 milliohm on resistance nominal, logic gate - data sheet curves show good at 4V gate and say 4A.
ADDED:
Should I be looking at specific types of inductors for this sort of application
Inductors are very special for best results. If this is a one-off then off the shelf inductors from eg Digikey or similar are wise. We can give advice in this when final real spec is known.
I'm assuming all of the caps in this type of application would be ceramic?
Ceramic capacitors will work well for all capacitors shown. At least 10V rating. More or much more voltage OK.
D1 is Schottky and should have current rating equal or greater than LED max current.
Now I just need to figure out how to generate the PWM signal.
PWM is "easy" [tm] and may not be needed. Above LED controller example can use analog or PWM control.
USB to I/O
This USB to paraell FIFO I/O module](http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/DataSheets/DLP/usb245r-ds-v10.pdf) uses FTDI's FT245R USB-parallell FIFO interface IC - datasheet here .
Vast amounts of related FT245 information here
FT245 available from Digikey ~= $US4.50/1 from here
FT245 based module from Digikey for about $40/1 here
This page discusses a DIY USB printer port which, as you have complete control over the hardware and how it acts, could "easily" meet your need. Based on a PIC18F4550 microcontroller and not much else. All software PCB patterns, circuit etc free.
Typical commercial USB to analog device
Best Answer
I have some concerns about the current limit circuit (based around the BC337 / R2) and its ability to work with PWM - every time the pulse goes high from U3 (initiating a current flow through the MOSFET), the voltage developed across R2 will activate the BC337 and clamp the drive voltage to the MOSFET. This means the MOSFET will get quite warm because it is operating as a current limit device.
Added to this you are trying to control the LED current via PWM BUT the BC337 circuit is also trying to limit the current. It doesn't look like it should work as you expect.
When you say the LED starts blinking, what is your PWM frequency?
Given the circuit you have I also have concerns about possible high voltages from the LED string being capacitively coupled (through the MOSFET) back to an IO pin on your MCU. Maybe protection diodes would help.