Electronic – How to program an AVR Raven with Linux or a Mac

I agree with zklapow but check the projects section on AVR Freaks too. That's how I learnt back in the day before arduinos. Also, you will almost certainly have to read the datasheet for your chip to get anything useful done. There are no nice functions that, for example, read an analog pin in because there are so many parameters that the arduino environment hides from you. Let me give you an example:

 int ledPin =  13;    // LED connected to digital pin 13
 // The setup() method runs once, when the sketch starts
 void setup()   {                
   // initialize the digital pin as an output:
   pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);     
 }
 // the loop() method runs over and over again,
 // as long as the Arduino has power
 void loop()                     
 {
   digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);   // set the LED on
   delay(1000);                  // wait for a second
   digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);    // set the LED off
   delay(1000);                  // wait for a second
 }

is roughly similar to the following C (not tested):

int main(void) {
    // I just randomly picked pin 6 on PORTB, this may not be the same on an arduino
    DDRB = (1<<6); // set pin to output in data direction register
    int i; // have to do this outside the for loop because of C standard

    while(1) {
        PORTB |= (1<<6); // send pin 6 high and leave other pins in their current state
        for (i=0; i<10000; i++); // delay

        PORTB &= ~(1<<6); // send pin 6 low
        for (i=0; i<10000; i++); // delay
    }
}

Sure, there are delay functions in some libraries and there may be output functions in other ones, but get used to writing code like this. The only way you can possibly know what all this PORTB and DDRB stuff means is to read the datasheet. I'm sorry to drone on about this but not enough people realize that the datasheet is a goldmine for information.

I believe I may have found a two part solution for my particular problem. I currently own an Arduino Diecimila (which has the ATMEGA168 with the problem) and also a new Arduino Nano 3.0. I went ahead and flashed the Arduino Nano with the ArduinoISP firmware. I then picked up 3 28 Pin ATMEGA328P DIP chips for $5.00 each at the local electronics store.

I used the ArduinoISP to flash one of the virgin chips with the Arduino Firmware using the above link with a crystal. I plan to now flash one of the other ATMEGA328Ps with the High Voltage Programmer firmware. This chip along with a bit of wiring on a breadboard should allow me to reset all of the fuses on the original ATMEGA168. Once that is done, I will be able to use the Arduino Nano to reprogram the chip.

Since the ATMEGA328Ps only cost $5 each, my end goal is to setup one 328 as an Arduino ISP programmer, setup the 168 as a HV Programmer, keep one 328 chip in my current Arduino Diecimila (upgrade!!), and I'll have one left over for whatever. I can then either switch chips on the Diecimila or build out a real board for the ISP and HV Programmer boards.

I still have not tested the JTAG ICE MKII yet with a logic/oscilloscope. Not sure if it is the root of the problem or not. I will address this issue after I build the HV Programmer.

I will report back on the success/failure of the HV Programmer. I just need to go get a few more 1K resistors to pull it off. Anyone ever tried the HV Programmer? Any other suggestions? If nothing else, hope this helps someone.