Electronic – Is it a safety issue to only bring the hot wire onto a board for mains switching

Warning

• FYI - some early AC/DC radio sets had live to mains chassis when operated from mains.

Equipment chassis is usually grounded to wiring ground via earth lead on power plug where provided.

In any sane regulatory environment, appliances without an earth lead are required by law to be "double insulated" so that internal metal parts are not touch accessible during operation. (Note: Double insulation nowadays seldom involves two layers of insulation - it is more a state of mind in manufacture and testing that leads to touch safe equipment. Usually :-). )

While a chassis should be "touch safe", never assume it is, because:

• There are non-sane regulatory environments,

• or ones where the authorities enforce the rules so little that they may be ignored and

• It is excessively common for people to do silly and dangerous things with mains wiring, despite being aware that people are reported to have died due to such things.

Wikipedia - appliance classes

They say:

Class I

• These appliances must have their chassis connected to electrical earth (US: ground) by an earth conductor (coloured green/yellow in most countries, green in the U.S., Canada and Japan). A fault in the appliance which causes a live conductor to contact the casing will cause a current to flow in the earth conductor. This current should trip either an overcurrent device (fuse or circuit breaker (CB)) or a residual-current device (RCD) also named as residual current circuit breaker (RCCB), or (ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI)) or also, residual current operated circuit-breaker with integral overcurrent protection (RCBO). which will cut off the supply of electricity to the appliance.

Class II - See also: double switching (and double insulated)

• A Class II or double insulated electrical appliance is one which has been designed in such a way that it does not require a safety connection to electrical earth (US: ground).

  The basic requirement is that no single failure can result in dangerous voltage becoming exposed so that it might cause an electric shock and that this is achieved without relying on an earthed metal casing. This is usually achieved at least in part by having two layers of insulating material surrounding live parts or by using reinforced insulation.

  In Europe, a double insulated appliance must be labelled Class II, double insulated, or bear the double insulation symbol (a square inside another square)..

Class III

• A Class III appliance is designed to be supplied from a separated/safety extra-low voltage (SELV) power source. The voltage from a SELV supply is low enough that under normal conditions a person can safely come into contact with it without risk of electrical shock.

  The extra safety features built into Class I and Class II appliances are therefore not required. For medical devices compliance with Class III is not considered sufficient protection.

You have the right idea for a basic unregulated supply. A transformer, four diodes, and as large a cap as you can manage will serve well enough for a lot of purposes, but isn't appropriate for all.

There are two main problems with such a unregulated supply. First, the voltage is not known well. Even with ideal components, so that the AC coming out of the transformer is a fixed fraction of the AC going in, you still have variations in that AC input. Wall power can vary by around 10%, and that's without considering unusual situations like brownouts. Then you have the impedance of the transformer. As you draw current, the output voltage of the transformer will drop.

Second, there will be ripple, possibly quite significant ripple. That cap is charged twice per line cycle, or every 8.3 ms. In between the line peaks, the cap is supplying the output current. This decreases the voltage on the cap. The only way to decrease this ripple in this type of design is to use a bigger cap or draw less current.

And don't even think about power factor. The power factor a full wave bridge presents to the AC line is "not nice". The transformer will smooth that out a little, but you will still have a crappy power factor regardless of what the load does. Fortunately, power factor is of little concern for something like a bench supply. Your refrigerator probably treats the power line worse than your bench supply ever will. Don't worry about it.

Some things you can't do with this supply is run a anything that has a tight voltage tolerance. For example, many digital devices will want 5.0 V or 3.3 V ± 10%. You're supply won't be able to do that. What you should probably do is aim for 7.5 V lowest possible output under load, with the lowest valid line voltage in, and at the bottom of the ripples. If you can guarantee that, you can use a 7805 regulator to make a nice and clean 5 V suitable for digital circuits.

Note that after you account for all the reasons the supply voltage might drop, that the nominal output voltage may well be several volts higher. If so, keep the dissipation of the regulator in mind. For example, if the nominal supply output is 9 V, then the regulator will drop 4 V. That 4 V times the current is the power that will heat the regulator. For example, if this is powering a digital circuit that draws 200 mA, then the dissipation in the regulator will be 4V x 200mA = 800mW. That's will get a 7805 in free air quite hot, but it will probably still be OK. Fortunately, 7805 regulators contain a thermal shutdown circuit, so they will just shut off the output for a while instead of allowing themselves to get cooked.