None that I know of. 15+ years ago I also worked for a small engineering firm that did what you described above. Today, in my basement, I can layout PC boards with free or low cost software, generate a Gerber file, email those files to a circuit board house and have boards made for less than $3/sq in with better quality that I can dream of doing. Mask and silkscreen are typically included for the same price. Turnaround is between 5-15 working days depending on how much you want to pay.
It's no longer reasonable to make PC boards yourself unless you need turnaround time measured in minutes. It's so cheap that if you place a reasonable value on your time, you lose money doing it onsite.
First, what you call paper isn't paper, it's a type of plastic! There's a possibility that it will melt if you try to transfer it using clothes iron.
Next, the document for the board doesn't mention that it's covered by anything, but if it actually is and you really want to use toner transfer, you'd need to get rid off the cover using developing solution. If you manage to get the real datasheet for the board, you should be able to get recommended solution there. I just use 10 g of NaOH in 1 l of warm water.
You also need to expose the board as well. First a quote from Wikipedia:
Photoresists are classified into two groups: positive resists and
negative resists.
A positive resist is a type of photoresist in which the portion of the photoresist that is exposed to light becomes soluble to the
photoresist developer. The portion of the photoresist that is
unexposed remains insoluble to the photoresist developer.
A negative resist is a type of photoresist in which the portion of the photoresist that is exposed to light becomes insoluble to the
photoresist developer. The unexposed portion of the photoresist is
dissolved by the photoresist developer.
You need to get documentation for your board or try your luck and determine if you need to expose it before developing or not. If you do need to expose it, just leave it in the direct sunlight for a few hours and then drop it in the developer. After it's developer, rinse it in water and the photoresist should be gone.
If the other side is not coated, I don't see a reason why it wouldn't work well for toner transfer.
After that, you need right paper, right clothes iron (or laminator) and right printer. That's why there are so many recommendations! Different combinations of those will provide different results.
I haven't experimented with magazine paper yet, but from my experience the thicker and glossier paper is, easier it will be to transfer the toner from the paper to the PCB. Also you need a good heat source to transfer the toner from the paper to the PCB.
In my experience, if you don't know what you need, go for FR4. Currently it seems to be the "default" PCB material.
Finally, since you said you don't have any resources locally and aren't in a rush, consider ordering a done PCB. It will be probably be cheaper than complete investment of making the PCB yourself.
Best Answer
For the photoengraving method of transferring circuit artwork, the circuit board cannot just be epoxy clad with bare copper. The copper must be coated with the special photoresist lacquer which undergoes a chemical change when exposed to light so that then later when it is washed in the special developer solution, parts of it will dissolve and parts will stay on the copper, based on the history of light exposure of different areas.
The job of the epoxy substrate is to provide a firm base for the copper traces and electronic components, and to resist damage from all the processing stages.
You can buy board which are already coated with photoresist, or you can apply photoresist to bare copper yourself.