It doesn't have to be a switcher. With 120V AC you could use an AC transformer to get 12V AC at (somewhat less than) 58 amps, then a rectifier, reservoir capacitor and (if necessary for your application) voltage regulator to get 12V DC. (I'm simplifying a bit: unregulated, 12V AC would give closer to 15V DC)
A PC power supply will be easier to find at 20A+ ratings, but you may find e.g. a car battery charger that would do the job.
My main worry would be that the AC from a small generator might be too poorly conditioned/regulated for a PC power supply and cause it to fail. I might be overcautious here, but the transformer/rectifier solution is likely to be more robust. You don't say what the load is; knowing that may help improve the answers.
On a generator, you have a prime mover (say, an engine) connected to the actual generator, which consists of either rotating coils of wire within a magnetic field, or rotating magnets surrounded by coils of wire.
The number of poles (magnetic poles) and the rotational speed determine the output frequency: Freq = Engine_RPM * Number_Of_Poles / 120.
Typically, a United States portable generator runs at 3600 RPM, with 2 poles, for a design frequency of 60Hz. Larger portable generators run at 1800 RPM with 4 poles here.
That is how frequency is determined. The number of turns and the magnetic structure determine how many volts are produced at the design frequency, voltage and frequency aren't related in any fashion except for design. Again, in the States, most portable generators are wound to have a 240VAC single phase output, which is center tapped and delivered as two 120VAC hots with one neutral, but virtually any voltage can be delivered.
The current output of a generator is determined by its load, as long as the load doesn't exceed the maximum capacity of the generator's prime mover (engine) plus the conversion losses of the actual generator. Prime mover power is often rated in horsepower (US) or kilowatts (everywhere else). With no losses, a 10 horsepower engine could deliver 7457 watts (actually VA for non-resistive loads) continuously, or 62.1 amps at 120VAC continuously. Try to take more, and the engine will slow down (reducing both the frequency and the voltage, which will also drop the current) until you reach a point that the engine actually stalls.
You get fluctuation of frequency and voltage as the load changes because the engine cannot respond immediately to the actual load change. There are regulators controlling the engine throttle that attempt to keep the engine at a fixed (design) speed, but it takes time for the engine to respond to new commands as it has to deal with varying fuel/air mixtures and combustion which aren't instantaneous.
As a clarification to other discussions here:
For a purely resistive load, halving the voltage would halve the current, and result in one quarter the power consumed. You can't say that just cutting the voltage in half cuts the power consumed in half. With some devices, that may be true, but it entirely depends on the load.
Best Answer
At a guess, you have a household trunk circuit breaker (usually about 200A) connected to municipal power lines through a transformer (often pole-mounted in a cylindrical can).
Each branch circuit in the house has a (10A ?) circuit breaker, and feeds the normal outlets. The trunk (200A) feeds all those branches.
It is possible that you are 'plugging' the 32A generator into a branch circuit, which (naturally) will blow the branch circuit breaker if the total household power use exceeds 10A. That's what branch circuit breakers do.
Instead, you want to use a transfer switch, which (1) disconnects the municipal power lines and transformer from your house, and (2) connects the 32A generator to the same wiring trunk that those power lines drove. That, too, may blow a circuit breaker (there's one in the generator), unless enough house circuits are disabled so that only a few appliances will run concurrently (presumably, including a refrigerator and a lamp and a clock).
While having a trunk power capacity of 32A is limiting, it ought not to be unlivable. The local fire safety codes will apply (probably a professional should make the connections), unless you're willing to bypass the house wiring and just plug a few appliances through extension cords into the generator.