If I could get a ceramic capacitor at the capacitance of 10uF and within my voltage requirements, which from my initial searches I can, what problems would I experience if I were to change, if any?
Some circuits (like some linear regulators, for example), require a certain minimum ESR from the output capacitor, which could cause the circuit to oscillate when using a ceramic but not with an electrolytic.
In a precision circuit, a ceramic might not be preferred due to microphonics, but in those cases you probably wouldn't want an electrolytic either.
Otherwise, ceramics are generally preferred. They'll have lower ESR, they're not polarized, they need less voltage de-rating, and so on.
Finally, when searching SMD footprint standards, the common packages seem to be 0402, 0603, and 0805, where they increase in physical size respectively, but also power rating, which suggests to me I should use as large of a package as possible
Usually you choose the smallest package you can get away with because you want to fit as much circuit as you can in the smallest footprint.
Also, for ceramics, the larger sizes (1210 and higher) can have reliability issues because they can be cracked if the board flexes.
As ever, a full circuit diagram would be invaluable - even if to show that there is nothing much more present than has been stated.
VAC = 220V so Vpeak = 220*1.414 =~ 310V.
180V DC/310 =~ 0.58
This is the sine of thge angle when the rectifiers start (or end ) conducting + 35 degrees.
For 35/90 of the cycle the voltage in is below Vdc so the cap MUST provide the motor current. If you do not have any energy storage in inductors then the cap is seeing a ripple current of in the order of the motor current and peak currents will very likely be higher (depending on transformer and wiring resistsance and more.)
As dissipation will be in the order of proportional to current squared you probably have about 10 x rated dissiation due to excess ripple current.
Nichicon are a well respected brand. Chances are the actual ripple current capacity on a genuine Nichicon meets or exceeds specifications. But it is unlikely to exceed it by enough to save you here IF the circuit is as it seems. It is possible that the cap is a counterfeit. This definitely happens and Nichicon are a well enough known brand that people MAY counterfeit them, although I have no specific knowledge of this happening in this case.
UUCAP I know not.
It is not unusual for little known Asian components to not come close to spec sheet claims.
In this case it appears that they exceed the specs handsomely !!!!
I'd not complain!
But do look at the actual ripple current.
A small sense resistor in the cap ground lead will allow a scope to be used with due care (or in the "hot" side with an isolation device AND if you know what you are doing. Or a Hall clamp / proximity meter or ... .
Note that cap lifetime ~+ Rated hours x 2 ^ [(Trated-Trun) / 10 ]
It is usual to run a cap at WELL below rated temperature.
30C below = 2 ^ (30/10) = 8 x rated lifetime.
So a 2000 hour rated cap would last about 2000 x 8 = 16000 hours ~= 2 years.
The larger margin the better.
Note that an Al electrolytic cap with NO applied voltage, held at high temperature will die faster than when voltage is applied !
Best Answer
That's what's known as a Supercapacitor.
They have specialized uses, most commonly as energy storage for real-time clock/calendars or retaining data when the power is off or the main battery is being changed.