connectorcrimpresistors
I want to crimp a resistor like the one below onto 18awg wire without soldering…
I've seen that bootlace ferrules like the photo below can possibly be used to do this but if I buy 22-24awg sized bootlace ferrules then the 18awg wire won't fit. And if I buy 18awg sized bootlace ferrules I'm concerned it won't properly crimp the resistor in place.
What is the best solution to achieve a connection between the resistor and 18awg wire without soldering them together?
This fuse holder has a small neon bulb in series with the resistor. The neon bulb acts as an indicator that the fuse has blown.
When the fuse is intact, the voltage across the fuse is small. So is the voltage across the neon light with resistor, because it's in parallel with the fuse. When the fuse blows it becomes open circuit, and the supply voltage appears across the neon bulb with resistor. The neon bulb lights up. The purpose of the resistor is to limit the current through the neon bulb.
Wired across the fuse terminals and contained in the plastic cover is a resistor and neon indicator that would presumably light up if the fuse was ruptured. [from Amazon product customer review]
You don't mention exactly what kind of resistors they are, but for "normal" through hole ones the best way is to first wrap one resistor's leg around the other resistor's leg, then wrap that resistor's leg around the first resistor's leg. So you end up with this:
The resistors hold themselves together and make it really easy to solder. It's a tough connection that won't easily break.
Depending on the kind of wire you're using you can use the same technique. It's also common to "insert" the resistor lead into the middle of the strands of stranded wire for soldering.
Best Answer
A ferrule is NOT a reliable or permanent crimp device for your application. The metal walls are far too thin.
Try it: crimp two resistors in a ferrule. Bend them at right-angles to each other and try to spin them inside the ferrule. You will find that they spin quite freely.
What DOES work reliably is the barrel from a standard non-insulated crimp terminal. Find a crimp terminal that both wire fit inside and cut the terminal portion away from the barrel. Put both wires inside the barrel and crimp with a proper crimp tool.
This makes a permanent, gas-tight connection that will last for decades.
FWIW - my preferred crimp style for non-insulated barrels of this type is known as a "W" crimp - so-called because of the "W" shape left in the barrel after crimping. The AMP Certi-Lok tool with the "W" crimp die-set is one popular choice.
Almost as good is the T&B "StaKon" crimp tool that electricians use - the small crimp nest works well for barrels up to 16 AWG, the large crimp nest works up to 10 AWG.
Finally, if you don't have any non-insulated crimp terminals handy, just remove the plastic insulation from insulated terminals. The barrel is pretty much exactly the same as the non-insulated terminal.