LiPo is MUCH easier to manage well than NimH.
Energy densities for top capacity NimH are about the same as LiPo nowadays.
(That was written in 2012. In 2021 LiPo energy densities are now typically somewhat higher).
NimH is a relatively hard battery chemistry to manage well. Charging at low rates is not usually advised and negative voltage deflection under charge or temperature rise are the usual end-of-charge detection methods. In contrast, LiPo is charged at constant-current until a set voltage is reached and then at constant-voltage until current falls to a preset level. LiPo will accept any lower-than-maximum rate of charge if desired, and can be recharged from any state-of-charge with no special conditions. (Handling very low voltage cells is slightly more complex, but all sensible charger ICs handle this - and very low voltage should never be allowed to happen.)
The ONLY reason I would think of using NimH in your context is safety - and if it was my son, I'd consider that I could make LiPo safe enough for him to use. LiPo can "melt down" very enthusiastically with flame, BUT it is extremely rare in practice and taking quite usual precautions should allow a safe result.
I would have no personal concerns over LiPo safety in a competently engineered system.
HOWEVER, NEVER use unprotected LiPo cells if you care about safety. The in-battery protection IC DOES NOT serve the same roles as the charger ICs do. The in-battery ones are just to stop people from doing stupidly dangerous things to the battery. That said, IF your charger is properly implemented, and if there is no chance of short or fire potential then most of the protection circuitry is not needed. I say "most" because, if there is e.g. a catastrophic equipment failure and e.g. a short circuit occurs, the in-cell circuitry will usually open-circuit the cell and prevent a fire.
Using the proper charger ICs should allow a very safe and reliable charger to be implemented.
You do not need gas gauging per se - just low voltage cut-out. If you can stop operation at say 3V / cell, that should be enough.
Protected cells should not cost vastly more. If they do, it MAY indicate that the cheap ones are bad ones. You can get utter junk LiIon batteries (and you'd hope to get a price advantage when buying junk :-) - if you were silly enough to buy them. There are enough reputable brand cells around that buying them probably does not cost vastly more. Ensuring that the cells are genuine is another matter. As a working position I suggest you start by assuming that anything bought from a low cost Chinese supplier is fake or out of spec and THEN try and prove otherwise. (NB: Racism? - definitely not!. It's based on experience - many visits to China and time in factories, etc. China is very, very large and has a vast range of sellers in a very competitive market place. In a casual sale, expect a certain portion of the sellers to be 'dodgy' at best.)
Added:
I was going to come back and mention LiFePO4 - AndreKr beat me to it.
Compared to LiPo, LiFePO4 (Lithium Ferro Phosphate) are safer, longer life and have lower energy density. You can buy RCR123A LiFePO4 batteries with 450 mAh x 3.2V capacity. (Some claim up to about 700 mAh but are suspect.) Tenergy LiFePO4 RC123A are widely advertised on ebay and should be good. Tenergy are AFAIK a "rebadger" BUT seem to sell good product. LiFePO4 MUST be charged properly, but are as easy as LiPo to manage. A very simple charger can be built using a constant-current regulator followed by a 3.6V constant-voltage regulator. This setup charges at constant current until Vlimit is reached, and then at constant V. Setting to 3.5V is better.
Here is a randomly found seller of Tenergy LiFePO4 RCR123A batteries. They also sell chargers.
NOTE:
Do NOT use Lithium Ion RC123 (3.6V nominal).
Do not use 3.0V Lithium Primary RC123.
The terms RC123, RC123A, RCR123, RCR123A etc are used somewhat interchangeably by sellers. Just be sure of what you are getting.
It is generally a bad idea to let a motor/speed control decide when your batteries need protecting, even if you use a LiPo ESC on LiPo batteries, the monitoring should be separate and inside the battery pack.
For a couple of simple reasons:
- On a collision you want any shorts to be protected from the battery outward, even if LiFePO4 is much safer vis-a-vis explosions.
- A "remote drain" deciding to throttle or shut off can cause oscillations through wire resistance and inductance that end up being more harmful.
- A power drain deciding to shut off creates the invalid "feeling" everything is protected, when other devices can drain enough to finally kill the battery.
- When a battery is replaced by another chemistry you don't have to change every other component (the only non-safety-related point).
No project, ever, anywhere using a rechargeable battery somewhat smartly or professionally should off-load the UVLO (under-voltage lock-out) detection to individual devices, but have it at the battery. The one exception is a single bespoke PCB in a fully qualified housing with a rechargeable battery, such as tiny Bluetooth headsets, where the constitution of the innards will not change outside of a complete design path with meetings and verifications.
So, do as aDub says: Get battery protection and turn off the UVLO in the controller.
Best Answer
Short answer:
Yes, you can use up to 15 LiFePo4 cells in series (aka 15S) at the input of the ESC without any problems.
Long answer:
LiFePo4 cells definitely work all Lipo ESCs... as long as you don't exceed the max input voltage of the ESC.
Your specific ESC lists that it can handle 12S Lipo batteries. This means, it can take an input voltage is greater than >50V (>4.2V*12). This is also the reason it states that you can use up to 36 NIHM cells, which are 1.5V peak voltage (1.5v*36 = 54v). 54V is the max input voltage for this ESC.
This means, you can use 15 LiFePo4 cells in series without exceeding the input voltage rating. The peak cell voltage for LiFePo4 cells is bit over 3.5V/cell... so 3.5v* 15 = 52.5v (which is below the max rated volatge)
More details:
The internals of an ESC are switching power regulators, which output a frequency modulated AC to the motor (except sometimes cheap BECs, are linear regulator, which get super hot). The switchers compensate for any battery sag, allowing you to pretty much put in any non-alkaline cells at the input (because alkaline batteries have way too much ESR). The only way to damage the ESC is to exceed the max input voltage. Some ESC may list the actual voltage, while most just list the max number of LiPo cells that the ESC can take.