but might 36v from a pair of panels damage the actuator circuitry?
So here's the deal. Lead-acid batteries look electrically like a voltage source/sink with a small series resistance, with the voltage level a function of state of charge. 2V/cell (there are 6 cells in series in a 12V battery) is nominal, and if I remember right, their open circuit voltage is something like 1.9V empty, 2.1V full. That covers 90% of their behavior.
Considering that, the "1W@18V" spec of the solar panel isn't going to be able to "win" against the battery, and the solar panel's voltage will be pulled down to battery voltage, delivering probably 0.055A (=1W/18V) at whatever the battery voltage is.
When a battery gets completely full, however, its series resistance goes up dramatically, and the voltage goes up, until there's enough voltage to start electrolysis of the fluid and you get H2 and O2 generation at the terminals and loss of the electrolyte. A lead-acid battery, depending on the type + manufacturer, has a certain recombination rate of H2 + O2 => electrolyte that it can handle; if you electrolyze at a higher current than that, it leads to permanent electrolyte loss (+hence capacity loss)
So there is a safe current that can be delivered to a lead-acid battery continuously, where its own self discharge due to electrolysis balances the charging current. It depends on the manufacture + construction. I wouldn't feel worried about a C/10 or C/20 rate of charge (where C = the current needed to discharge a battery in 1 hour). Garage door batteries are probably > 1Ah capacity so you should be safe with 55mA charging current.
HOWEVER -- I would probably put a (zener diode and resistor in series) in parallel with each battery, the zener diode being about 14V and resistor being maybe 10 ohms or so, so that it keeps the battery terminals from getting charged too far.
Also: if you can, wire each solar panel to each battery (and keep the diodes), rather than the pair of panels in series wired to the batteries in series -- i.e. try to connect the center taps. By doing so, you'll charge each battery independently. Otherwise, what can ruin battery life is if the battery voltages diverge -- the one with the higher voltage will tend to get overcharged, while the other one will tend to get overdischarged and not completely charged.
Yes, it's okay, on condition that you never let the battery voltage exceed a maximum.
The maximum is typically around 14.4V to 14.8V at 21C temperature. If the maximum is exceeded for minutes to hours, the battery will be permanently damaged. The damage occurs around the same time that flammable gas is generated and vented, so there is a risk of gas explosion near the battery.
Your setup would require constant monitoring, especially if the load is disconnected or turned off. Check the voltage every hour, and disconnect the solar panel as the voltage approaches the maximum.
To find the maximum voltage, check the manufacturer's label or datasheet for the battery.
You can make your setup safer by adding a charge controller to protect the battery (so you don't have to monitor), by ensuring there is air flow, by removing any sources of ignition for the gas, and by keeping the battery away from things it might damage as a result of an explosion.
Best Answer
You could connect your battery string directly to the solar panel: the voltage is about right. However, your VRLA batteries are sealed, so you should never over-charge them.
Your "24V" panels probably have a peak power point around 36V, and an open circuit voltage around 48V. This is a suitable voltage range for running a "24V" power system, which actually runs at around 28V, charges at 30V, needs around 32V before losses, and needs some overhead so that it works in low-light conditions.
Running a "36V" system at about 42V, with charging around 44V, you wouldn't get very good solar efficiency out of your "24V" panel, and you wouldn't get peak charge current out of them, so they would not be 200W each (400W total) except perhaps under exceptional conditions when cold and new, running into a flat battery.
A normal charge controller can "handle" this situation, that is, it won't die, it will charge your battery, it won't overcharge your battery, it won't destroy the UPS. *Assuming the charge controller voltage levels can be configured for sealed batteries
The question is, can you "handle" the fact that you won't get 200W (each) out of your 200W (each) panels if you configure it that way?
Having said that, it's a UPS. You may never use it. You probably won't need 400W. And it's a stop-gap: your expectations don't have to be high.