pads
Attached pictures are a lifted power pad+trace of a 1000W PSU of a commercial subwoofer. Caliper showed 0.42mm thick, which if correct gives about 12oz copper trace!
In this particular pad was the source of a mosfet after rectifier bridge, transformer and capacitors bank.
Pad+trace are intact, I just need to reliably fix them back to place.
What are the best options? Epoxy? Maybe araldite? I am not sure if it will ever corrode copper or sensitive electronics.
You should definitely use the exact nominal pad dimensions and spacings shown on the datasheet. You might have to set the grid differently or something like that on Eagle (not a user) but I'm sure you can do it. See any tutorial on creating SMT parts from scratch.
Presumably you're going to use two 2mm holes for the location posts (even though one of the posts is actually designed to fit a 1.6mm x 2mm elliptical shape (probably about 1.3 x 1.7mm). I would suggest you specify those holes as unplated so the pins fit nicely. You might even make them a touch smaller than recommended if you're using hand assembly. The unplated designation may result in a slight cost increase in the PCB because it requires an extra process step. Sometimes folks nail down the connector with a bit of epoxy to make it more sturdy (eg. the SMT mini-USB connector on the Beagleboard).
As others have said, the through-hole connectors are much more sturdy than the SMT ones (even with the location posts), but it's better if you can use drilled slots for the tabs. Large holes work okay for hand soldering, but they suck up a lot of solder.
Figured it out!
You can do the same trick as with the SMT pads, but draw on the 'multilayer' layer.
Steps:
1) Draw Small pad with correct slotted hole 2) Draw half a circle (on the left of the left pad) on the 'Multilayer'-layer. Set soldermask / paste expansion to 'from rules'. 3) Draw the cutoff circle on the right (using circles and lines). Use Tools --> Convert--> Create Region from selected primitives to get the shape in the center of the pads, set the soldermask / paste expansion to 'from rules' for this region.
Result:
Best Answer
Epoxy should be a great choice. I would tape the back of the circuit board so that the epoxy can go in the hole and self-level, put the epoxy in, and then use tape to hold the trace down.
After that, you'll need to re-drill the hole for the replacement component. The existing hole was probably plated through; if it was, you will need to solder the component onto both the top and bottom traces.