Use pwm to control speed of at motor driver

That module gives you low level access to the radio -- e.g. you're not going to be sending high level prototcol data. Yes -- it's trivial for you to send any arbitrary message to the radio and have your arduino interpret the message as you please (set pwm duty cycle etc). You shouldn't need to do a whole lot else to get proof of concept. If you need super long range 0 dBm might not cut it, but it's definitely OK for several meters.

With regards to your second question: there are a million ways to identify the different radios. The most expensive and worst way is to have a different transmitter for each receiver. It's obvious why this is a bad solution. All your other solutions will require you to implement some kind of higher level protocol. There are lots and lots and lots of options here (this is a whole area of academic research). I used a similar Nordic radio several years ago and it had different channels you could utilize. That can help you (e.g. put one receiver on one channel), but it obviously doesn't scale well (e.g. if you have more devices than channels you're back to square one. Equally importantly you might not want to use certain channels -- they might be noisy, have poor PRR, etc). One simple, but not particularly robust (from the networking perspective) is to invent a protocol wherein you blast a message and depending on the contents of that message one and only one receiver responds. Your arduino will have to implement whatever protocol you want so obviously you can't go crazy with the complexity (e.g. you probably don't want to implement posix sockets). For a few motors (less than 10) you'll probably be OK doing something like this provided that you don't have stringent latency requirements.

The core issue here is that you have misunderstood how the TLC5940NT outputs actually work. They do not operate the same way as the Arduino's push-pull output drivers, the TLC5940NT uses current sinks (called open Drain outputs, which really act more like inputs! Freaky right? I explain more at the end) to pull that pin "LOW". This is why you connect LEDs to them, sometimes with a current limiting resistor (depending on if they are actually current-controlled sinks or not) from VCC through the LED and then into the pin of the TLC5940NT and similar devices (I used the TLC59116F before, which is similar).

I actually made the same mistake as you back in the day, as I did not know what an open drain/sink input was, and assumed exactly like you did, that it would work similar to the way my Arduino did. What you need to do to make this work is invert the logic with external components and some pull up resistors. When the "outputs" of the TLC5940NT are "off" the value on the pin is pulled high. This "high" signal can be inverted easily with either two methods - an NPN transistor logic inverter circuit, or an inverting buffer/line driver logic IC or even op-amps if you have to. Below is a quick sketch of each of these methods.

Figure 1: Transistor logic inverter using a cheapo NPN BJT.

Figure 2: Using an inverting buffer IC, such as a 7404 Hex (means 8 inputs/outputs) Inverting buffer.

You might want a pull down resistor or two on the buffer output to avoid floating pins but I think it will be okay without them. Always follow the guidance of the manufacturer's datasheet.

Notice how in both pictures I show the TLC5940's "output" pins as actually the top side of an N channel MOSFET? This pin is going to the "drain" of the FET, which when turned off is basically an open circuit, so they call it an "open drain" output. Even though it acts as a low side current sink switch.. Terribly confusing, and I understand why you made this mistake. It is important that you learn this now, as early as you can, and always remember in the future to check these datasheets and go through the logic to be sure this doesn't happen again.

The next thing to do is wire the outputs of these inverting stages to the inputs of your motor driver, as if they were Arduino style output signals.

Your system should work as intended now! The external components are a necessary evil because of the way the outputs of the TLC5940NT work. I agree though (and why I used the TLC59116F) they have awesome features and using their ability to PWM each channel and let your microcontroller do other things is worth the effort.