R – Deleted everything but members from a SharePoint site

While hardly the simplest approach, but since this is a developer site, I would recommend creating a DelegateControl to add to your site. Using DelegateControls has several benefits, for example:

• the ability to selectively activate and deactivate the controls through features
• no need to modify any out-of-the-box files which would break supportability
• ability to output different content on a page-by-page basis

You can opt to use one of the DelegateControls of the default master pages if you need to deploy to an existing site based on one of the default site definitions. The AdditionalPageHead is a favorite among developers, as it allows multiple overrides to be active at the same time.

If you want to create your own master pages you can add DelegateControls as you like.

If you want to learn more about DelegateControls you can check out the first issue of Understanding SharePoint Journal (Disclaimer: I wrote that issue). Also, check out the MSDN article on How to customize a Delegate Control.

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The Site collection administrators link will not appear under Users and Permissions unless you are at the Site Collection Top Level Site.

You can verify where you are by going to Site Actions > Site Settings. If under the Site Collection Administration section, it says Go to top level site settings you are not at the Top Level Site. Click this link to get the top level site.