You can use this Greasemonkey script from lifehacker
Copying it here for the record:
// ==UserScript==
// @name Show Editable Subject
// @description Always show editable subject field when replying to a message in Gmail.
// @include http://mail.google.com/*
// @include https://mail.google.com/*
// @author Gina Trapani
// @namespace http://lifehacker.com
// @version 0.1
// @tab Compose
// @homepage http://lifehacker.com/
// ==/UserScript==
// Version 0.1: Released
// Borrowed some keyhandler code from http://bitterpill.org/gmail_tinyurl/
// Repurposed some code from http://userscripts.org/scripts/review/20887
// Based on mathmike's the Show Details user script http://userscripts.org/scripts/show/13700
// mathmike: Most of the functions below were borrowed from Gmail Macros (New)
var CLICK_TO_SHOW = "MRoIub";
var INNER_HTML = "Edit Subject"
var KEYCOMBO_ONLY=false;
var THIRD_KEYCODE=66;
var gmail = null;
window.addEventListener('load', function() {
if (unsafeWindow.gmonkey) {
unsafeWindow.gmonkey.load('1.0', function(g) {
gmail = g;
if (KEYCOMBO_ONLY) {
getDoc().defaultView.addEventListener('keydown', keyHandler, false);
} else {
gmail.registerViewChangeCallback(handleView);
handleView();
}
});
}
}, true);
function getDoc() {
return gmail.getNavPaneElement().ownerDocument;
}
function keyHandler(event) {
GM_log(event.ctrlKey + ' ' + event.shiftKey + ' ' + event.keyCode);
if (event.ctrlKey == true && event.shiftKey == true && event.keyCode == THIRD_KEYCODE) {
clickSpan();
}
}
function handleView() {
//if (gmail.getActiveViewType() == "co") clickSpan(); //Compose view
if (gmail.getActiveViewType()=="cv") tryToClickSpan(); //Conversation view, user may hit Reply link
}
function clickSpan() {
var nodes =
getNodesByTagNameAndClass(gmail.getActiveViewElement(), "span", CLICK_TO_SHOW);
if (!nodes) return false;
for (var i in nodes) {
GM_log("Node " + i + " HTML is " + nodes[i].innerHTML );
if (nodes[i].innerHTML == INNER_HTML){
simulateClick(nodes[i], "click");
return true;
}
}
}
function simulateClick(node, eventType) {
var event = node.ownerDocument.createEvent("MouseEvents");
event.initMouseEvent(eventType,
true, // can bubble
true, // cancellable
node.ownerDocument.defaultView,
1, // clicks
50, 50, // screen coordinates
50, 50, // client coordinates
false, false, false, false, // control/alt/shift/meta
0, // button,
node);
node.dispatchEvent(event);
}
function getNodesByTagNameAndClass(rootNode, tagName, className) {
var expression =
".//" + tagName +
"[contains(concat(' ', @class, ' '), ' " + className + " ')]";
return evalXPath(expression, rootNode);
}
function evalXPath(expression, rootNode) {
try {
var xpathIterator = rootNode.ownerDocument.evaluate(
expression,
rootNode,
null, // no namespace resolver
XPathResult.ORDERED_NODE_ITERATOR_TYPE,
null); // no existing results
} catch (err) {
GM_log("Error when evaluating XPath expression '" + expression + "'" +
": " + err);
return null;
}
var results = [];
// Convert result to JS array
for (var xpathNode = xpathIterator.iterateNext();
xpathNode;
xpathNode = xpathIterator.iterateNext()) {
results.push(xpathNode);
}
return results;
}
function tryToClickSpan() {
if (!clickSpan() ) {
setTimeout(tryToClickSpan, 500);
}
}
Best Answer
After inspecting what happens when i select the language from the dropdown on the login screen using Firefox devtools. I noticed that the "hl:en" parameter gets passed to the first request.
Then i put hl=en in the querystring for the gmail login url and bookmarked the page, that seems to bring me to the English Gmail.
This solution is sufficient for me.