but might 36v from a pair of panels damage the actuator circuitry?
So here's the deal. Lead-acid batteries look electrically like a voltage source/sink with a small series resistance, with the voltage level a function of state of charge. 2V/cell (there are 6 cells in series in a 12V battery) is nominal, and if I remember right, their open circuit voltage is something like 1.9V empty, 2.1V full. That covers 90% of their behavior.
Considering that, the "1W@18V" spec of the solar panel isn't going to be able to "win" against the battery, and the solar panel's voltage will be pulled down to battery voltage, delivering probably 0.055A (=1W/18V) at whatever the battery voltage is.
When a battery gets completely full, however, its series resistance goes up dramatically, and the voltage goes up, until there's enough voltage to start electrolysis of the fluid and you get H2 and O2 generation at the terminals and loss of the electrolyte. A lead-acid battery, depending on the type + manufacturer, has a certain recombination rate of H2 + O2 => electrolyte that it can handle; if you electrolyze at a higher current than that, it leads to permanent electrolyte loss (+hence capacity loss)
So there is a safe current that can be delivered to a lead-acid battery continuously, where its own self discharge due to electrolysis balances the charging current. It depends on the manufacture + construction. I wouldn't feel worried about a C/10 or C/20 rate of charge (where C = the current needed to discharge a battery in 1 hour). Garage door batteries are probably > 1Ah capacity so you should be safe with 55mA charging current.
HOWEVER -- I would probably put a (zener diode and resistor in series) in parallel with each battery, the zener diode being about 14V and resistor being maybe 10 ohms or so, so that it keeps the battery terminals from getting charged too far.
Also: if you can, wire each solar panel to each battery (and keep the diodes), rather than the pair of panels in series wired to the batteries in series -- i.e. try to connect the center taps. By doing so, you'll charge each battery independently. Otherwise, what can ruin battery life is if the battery voltages diverge -- the one with the higher voltage will tend to get overcharged, while the other one will tend to get overdischarged and not completely charged.
You could connect your battery string directly to the solar panel: the voltage is about right. However, your VRLA batteries are sealed, so you should never over-charge them.
Your "24V" panels probably have a peak power point around 36V, and an open circuit voltage around 48V. This is a suitable voltage range for running a "24V" power system, which actually runs at around 28V, charges at 30V, needs around 32V before losses, and needs some overhead so that it works in low-light conditions.
Running a "36V" system at about 42V, with charging around 44V, you wouldn't get very good solar efficiency out of your "24V" panel, and you wouldn't get peak charge current out of them, so they would not be 200W each (400W total) except perhaps under exceptional conditions when cold and new, running into a flat battery.
A normal charge controller can "handle" this situation, that is, it won't die, it will charge your battery, it won't overcharge your battery, it won't destroy the UPS. *Assuming the charge controller voltage levels can be configured for sealed batteries
The question is, can you "handle" the fact that you won't get 200W (each) out of your 200W (each) panels if you configure it that way?
Having said that, it's a UPS. You may never use it. You probably won't need 400W. And it's a stop-gap: your expectations don't have to be high.
Best Answer
You can't. Why not? There are 3 ways you could hook up the extra battery - in series with the first two, in parallel with both of them, or in parallel with one existing battery. Each has its problems:-
In series you will have 36V total - probably too much for the panels and charge controller.
12V In parallel with 24V the voltages don't match - so expect lots of sparks and blown up batteries!
In parallel with one 12V battery the voltages match - but charging current will split between them and the other existing battery will get overcharged/discharged because it only has half the capacity.
You should buy two additional batteries and wire them in series, then you will have enough voltage to put them in parallel with the original 24V battery. This will also give you two battery banks which can be isolated from each other if you need to work on one bank or use it for something else.
When wiring batteries in series, try to use identical batteries which are the same age and condition. Buying a 'spare' battery to replace one that might die is probably not worthwhile.