Electronic – Necessary things in LPC1343 basic development board

A debug LED (You can convert it into a watchdog blinky later to verify that your main loop/1ms interrupt or whatever you're using is still running) is something that I would consider pretty mandatory for an exploratory board. Hello World on your new PCB does not need to be as complex as an LCD. You could repurpose a backlight controlling MOSFET for this purpose if you don't want to add the real components.

I'm assuming you're giving yourself some form of breakout for your extra pins - An LCD screen is great, and I understand the desire to keep it simple, but there's little that can go wrong simply by adding a trace to nowhere, and nowhere can become somewhere someday. Even if you don't want to add real headers, some test points (in the form of staggered rows of .05x.1" copper pads) will let you solder and hot glue some wires on later. This doesn't have to be a big deal. I'd put some jumpers/resistors on those lines, so you can add some 1k resistors to protect your pins from being shorted or hit with ESD if you decide to do so. This also gives you the ability to pull any of your other pins high or low if later you find this is necessary!

One thing that I do on a first board is add a lot of vias. Vias are your friends when making modifications (assuming you're getting this done at a PCB house and don't have to drill them yourself). If you've got two vias on every trace, even if you don't change sides with your trace, you can cut the trace later with an Xacto and run 30-ga wire wrap wire between the traces that need to be swapped (Make sure your vias are big enough for this, though). You can also add 0805 0-ohm jumpers (solder bridges are cheap; you don't need to buy components) and solder wires to the pads later if you don't like the via method. Probably won't be necessary, but it's cheap/free insurance.

Oh, and connect the LCD/USB setup first, then tack wires on temporarily from your working breadboard to make sure that the externals are working.

Most likely the 22pF values used by TI are a compromise (cost / availability). The crystal can generally tolerate a few pF plus or minus the calculated value. I would guess that some empirical testing went into the decision to use 22pF instead of a closer value, or perhaps 22pF was already on the BOM.

Ultimately, even a calculation like what's in the datasheet is based on stray capacitance 'guesstimation'. You have to test whatever capacitor value you come up with and make sure that it works in your end product.

Also, page 20 of the C1111 datasheet that you linked to says 12-18pF is the range to use for the 32.768kHz crystal. Your mileage may vary.

The most important thing to keep in mind is that the capacitor should be tight tolerance with an appropriate dielectric material (one that isn't highly temperature dependent, such as NP0/C0G).

Further reading: here's a link to a good explanation of the topic of how crystals and capacitors interact.